Month: November 2020

South Africa at its finest

Those of you unfamiliar with South Africa may not appreciate some of the questionable actions from the ranks of Government over the past decade. Take for example the good folks running Eskom, who, as the State’s electricity public utility have not exactly showered themselves in glory during the past few years and as a result, the country still endures periodic blackouts. For some, this particular State owned enterprise has come to represent the ills of leadership in this country. You can imagine our surprise then, to have spent the past month hopping between the State-funded and world class South African National Parks (SAN Parks).

These places are excellent. And not just in the context of this country, but in the context of any other corner of the word we have sampled. What’s more, given that the jewel in the SAN Parks crown still awaits, we are feeling pretty buoyed by the Wild Card pass we purchased before leaving Cape Town, which gives us entry into all these highly underrated parks.  

We took a week in Storms River Mouth, which provided a quite breathtaking setting in which to pitch a tent. A fortnight previously, an affable and well travelled chap by the name of Roy spoke highly of Storms River, but did suggest that as a priority we find good shelter from the wind. In hindsight, we didn’t really pay enough attention to Roy and having now comprehensively tested our kit, it’s fair to say that the weather at this time of year is not for wimps. However, the rain, wind and relentless crashing ocean combined to create some sort of extreme ambient white noise, which seemed to send everyone into a solid nights sleep. Which was a pleasant surprise. 

The Otter Trail begins at Storms River and although circumstance at this time in our lives has not allowed us to indulge in a hike along this world famous stretch of coastline, we did manage a quick jog on Day 1 of the five-day trail, and by all observations the hype is thoroughly warranted. 

According to the purists out there, the Garden Route ends at the suspension bridge over Storms River, and so we left one of the country’s best-exported draw cards behind and headed further into the pleasing contrast of the Eastern Cape. Our first stop was Addo Elephant Park and this place doesn’t pull any punches; it’s a massive area full of elephants. Like those before it, this SAN Park was near flawless, and the kids were quite taken aback by the close encounters with wildlife. All combined to deliver a very memorable couple of days. 

In a nutshell, we have struggled to find fault in these superb places which seem to showcase the very best of this country. Perhaps the thoroughly good team in charge of SAN Parks could have a crack at the Eskom portfolio for a while. Just to get the lights back on. 

Storms River camp is a bit of a jaw dropper
Our sample of the Otter trail
Something spectacular just seems to pop up around every corner
Surprisingly keen to help out
The different stages of learning how to smile
The end of our very rewarding time on the Garden Route
Mission very much accomplished
The games of eye spy became less challenging
Enjoyable driving through the Eastern Cape

Enjoying the Wilderness

Our time in South Africa over the past few years has been largely spent expecting a new baby or nursing a new baby. As a result, we never really ventured with much gusto beyond weekend trips from Cape Town. As we plotted our route for this journey though, the voices championing a stop at Wilderness were plentiful. So we decided to stop.

We departed Prince Albert – a town to be remembered for some very colourful characters – via a thoroughly enjoyable drive over Swartberg Pass. Pitching camp on a rainy Sunday afternoon on the edge of Wilderness National Park did not thankfully set the tone for the week.  There is a lot on offer in this corner of the world and while we have sampled a good slice of the family friendly hikes, enchanting forests and impressive beaches, we have left much to return for. 

In wildlife news, aside from an impressive flyby from Egyptian Geese while canoeing on the Touws River, notable bird sightings include the Narina Trogon and Knysna Loeries; the latter of which was even confidently spotted by one of the youngest in our ranks.  

It’s pleasing to report that our camp logistics are slowly improving. This week for example, we introduced a discreet potty station towards the rear of the camp. The intention being to reduce night runs to the loo and more crucially, to prevent our living quarters becoming an unregulated latrine. We had great success on this front and encouragingly it has been used almost exclusively only by the children. Almost. It did though result in the occasional awkward encounter when exchanging morning pleasantries with a perfect stranger, while both parties politely ignore the plastic pot brimming with a cocktail of hydration. 

Currently in The Crags above Plettenberg Bay and judging by the fine seafood lunches on offer, this place is about to give our budgeted per diem a bit of a seeing to. 

Early morning on the very cool Swartberg Pass
After a bit of jostling we found a spot on the beach
The camp throne
The Wilderness National Park delivered some memorable hikes and river crossings.
Gratuitous long exposure camp shot

Chapter Two

In those peaceful years of marriage before deciding to start a family we would often observe those distressed looking parents attempting to negotiate a gaggle of toddlers at an airport, or a restaurant, or a beach, or wherever. What idiots, we would smugly think to ourselves; what are they doing? 

And it was this superior wisdom that we applied when deciding to once again throw most of our belongings into storage and take our three young daughters on a camping trip around South Africa for the next few months.

Previous followers of this blog may recall that we rolled into Cape Town Waterfront a little over five years ago on a couple of well-used bicycles. These next few months are intended to provide another slight detour for us, and so we thought it might warrant reigniting this account. The next chapter though, is likely to deliver somewhat contrasting content from our first installment. Indeed, if it is tales of cross-continental cycle exploits that you’re after, then this is no longer the place for you. If however, you’re keen to know the results of a pressure test between a volatile two-year-old and an overpacked family car, then stay tuned.

To ease ourselves into this, we couldn’t have selected a more appropriate first stop. Dwarsberg Trout Hideaway is held in high regard by the family circles of Cape Town and for immediately apparent reasons – it’s a magnificent spot. However, given that two from our party of five had never spent a night under canvas our first evening was approached with a healthy dose of trepidation, as this was going to provide the litmus test for our next few months. 

It was moderately worrying then, when we all emerged at daybreak and the regular morning offer of ‘tea or coffee Dear?’, prompted a request to make this morning’s coffee Irish. In our almost ten years of union, never had such a request been made. More worryingly though, this was 7:30am of the first morning; we haven’t packed nearly enough whisky for all this. Reassuringly, the next few nights passed without incident and the single malt remains in stock.

After passing through the implausibly big and quite breathtaking Karoo, we are resupplying – while being hammered by some unrelenting wind – in the very pleasant town of Prince Albert, before heading south.

Evidently, we won’t be travelling particularly light on this occasion
Testing out the new kit
Our new alternative to Peppa Pig
Stretching the legs