South Africa

Post script

Two months after finishing in Cape Town, although our own productivity levels have tapered off somewhat, a few journalists have taken some interest in our trip and written their own accounts of our journey.

In South African press:

http://traveller24.news24.com/Explore/Couple-undertake-epic-year-long-cycle-from-China-to-SA-20150528

And in the UK:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/travel/travel_news/article-3112066/Spider-bites-military-checkpoints-white-knuckle-ride-Tunnel-Death-Thrill-seeking-couple-cycles-11-000-MILES-gruelling-trek-China-South-Africa.html

A word from our sponsors:

http://www.kathmandu.co.nz/summit-club/stories/cycling-china-south-africa

And from Chobe National Park:

https://afktravel.com/93765/from-china-to-cape-town-cycling-couple-shares-impressions-of-chobe-detour/

Our year in pictures

We thought our arrival into Cape Town Waterfront warranted a final blog post, on account of all those who were good enough to be there last Monday and deliver the warm welcome home.

Below are a few photos from our final moments of the trip and beneath that, some which tell the story of how we ended up there.

We’re done with riding for now.

Still friends.

Worth the wait.

And in order to make it to the waterfront:

China: departing on day 1 with 18,000km ahead of us and a lot to learn.

Kyrgyzstan: cold times.

Tajikistan: perhaps the most spectacular riding of the whole trip.

Uzbekistan: early mornings to avoid the heat. And conveniently, the tourists.

Kazakhstan: pleased to be in Aktau (at first), signalling the end of the Central Asian leg.

Georgia: has a lot going for it, and ended up as one of our finest months.

Turkey: a mosque in every town.

Greece: a more relaxed time. With cotton fields and a dash of ouzo…

Egypt: mainly dreadful.

Sudan: the surprise package of the trip. Peaceful days and nights.

Ethiopia: barely a yard of road was ridden without passing someone. A truly frantic country.

Kenya: some youngsters learning the Maasai way of life.

Tanzania: a mixed bag. Some tough riding but a rewarding country.

Zambia: interested locals. The help and hospitality in Zambia was tremendous.

Namibia: long desert stretches and tiring days.

South Africa: tears at our first sighting of Table Mountain, on our penultimate day.

The End

If you sit on a bicycle in western China and ride it for 18,226 km you should eventually end up somewhere near Cape Town in South Africa. And that’s exactly what we did. After 326 days, 17 countries, an inordinate amount of coca-cola and a few hiccups along the way, we rolled into Cape Town Waterfront today on the same bicycles that departed Kashgar in mid-May last year. Bodies and bikes are still in one piece after taking a bit of a hammering over the last eleven months, though crucially, the marriage is still intact.

Our final route.

One of the most frequent questions we’ve encountered over the last few months is what we consider to have been the hardest part of our trip. Without a doubt, the most difficult part of this journey for us was deciding to start it. This required giving up our jobs, forgoing income for a year, locking up our possessions in a warehouse and deciding to sacrifice almost all of our savings; all of which seemed very counter intuitive at this stage of life.

Was it all worth it? Absolutely.

Job done.

Some Thanks…

A few words of thanks are necessary at this point, to the people who have helped make the last year pass as smoothly as it has.

Firstly, to our expedition chief Tom Rock, who has diligently watched over our progress since day one and who has juggled his responsibility of becoming a first-time father with tracking our slow progress during the last year. Excellent work Tom, you can take tomorrow off.

To the several folks who helped provide security information as we approached some of the more dubious countries. Specifically, to Brian Beckett and staff at Plan International, Jon Williamson and the security advisors at BG Group, and to Tim McNeill at MI6. Collectively, you managed to cut a relatively smooth path for us.

Thanks also to the many people who have seen us at various stages along the way, usually providing a much-needed bed, a feed and a drink, including:

Imogen and his family in Osh Guesthouse, for your invaluable help in getting us on our feet and on our way. To Jane and Haydn Johnson for sharing the joys of Istanbul with us and shipping almost an entire bicycle in their suitcase. To our most frequently met companions: Jos and Gary. Tristan, Phillipa & Jamie for a wonderful evening of whiskey and good chat in Nanyuki. To Victor for his invaluable wheel fixing connections. Jon and Jude for the Christmas Fajitas in Nairobi. The superb hospitality and New Year celebrations shared with Claire and Niall in Arusha (and of course our very memorable Crater experience). To Nicky at Kisolanza Farm for transforming an overnight stop into three nights of great food and comfort. Neels and Georg at the Kings Highway for all the information and connections south of Zambia, and to Moses for welcoming us to his family home.

To Colin and Natasha in Lusaka for a weekend of good times (and oddly, shoes). Paul & Irena and all at the Mkushi Country Club, for showing unbelievable levels of hospitality and kindness to two complete strangers. To  Jocasta & Barbara for a weekend of sheer indulgence on the banks of the Zambezi. To Murrae & Miles Godbold for introducing us to the wonders of the Chobe River, and finally, to Duncan and Cath for our stay in Swakopmund and the home-cooked Michelin star cuisine.

The Finish…

Thank you also to all of those that showed up today at Cape Town Waterfront and provided what turned out to be a fitting end to this journey. We appreciate it.

Thanks to you all. Here’s to the next chapter.

Closing in

As we cycled over the Orange River into South Africa, we could immediately sense crossing a frontier into this most famous of African nations; we could almost taste the exquisite wines, almost feel the immense sporting pride and almost hear the frustrations toward an inept government. The more tangible indicator however, was the much welcomed distance marker to Cape Town, which signaled the final of the many mileage countdowns we have entertained ourselves with over the past few months. The tarmac roads of the north were a welcome relief, although the surprisingly tricky hills we could have done without at this stage of the trip. We left the barren north behind and headed for the rugged and beautiful west coast which has delivered us both excellent seafood and sunsets.

There she is…

Sunset over Doringsbay.

We have now climbed our last hill, ridden our last un-tarred road and eaten our final meal of pasta con chicken stock cube – only some of which we will miss. Having spent the last year concerning ourselves with questions of where we will sleep for the night and where our next meal will come from, it’s a little daunting to be re-entering into a world where admission of these two questions will stand you out as a quite incompetent individual. For now though, we have the joys of some pleasant – albeit windy – beach camps to reflect on how exactly we got here.

The Western Cape…toward our finish.